Day 15 or day 2 in Kyoto

Grazed on mix of Japanese and western breakfast before heading by subway for Nanzenji Temple in the foot hills east of Kyoto. Again a great choice of hotel as we are very close to the subway.  Walked around the temple complex and entered one temple- no charge. Other gardens and temples were costing £3-5 for  entry.

Followed a water course down to the canal where we saw two fishermen on the bank.  One was human and the other was a heron standing next to each other.  The man threw a snack to the heron - both happy animals watching the water flowing by- very fast for a canal. Now desperate for shade and air conditioning and were lucky to find the canal museum- sounds pretty boring but the cool air compensated.

We followed the canal towards the city and a subway but stopped at another air conditioned building- the Municipal art museum- to see some great Japanese art and to cool down.  We have now adopted the Japanese customs when walking in 34C- wet towel around neck and an umbrella to protect from sun.

Back to the hotel for refueling before visiting Gion district by subway- an old part of town famed for restaurants and Geisha. Got some great photos- see below and spotted a Geisha walking and two in back of taxi.  Walked away from the crowds and found a restaurant that seemed reasonable by Japan standards and had superb meal comprising salad (see below), pickles, korean vegetable pancake, pork, rice, chinese milk pudding and a beer. A meal to remember especially since we sat at the long table facing the chefs who were providing the entertainment by preparing the meals in front of us.

Walked back to through some busy streets- one was along a narrow road full of restaurants, some backed onto the river.  Carried on through the crowds heading for our hotel.  Stopped to check position on the map when a young couple asked in english if they could help.  Just like the koreans they were so keen to practice their English, which was first class.  No hassle getting back and now writing this blog- another great day.


Herons and Geisha

Liz finding new best friends and wishing she had brought her kimono with her

the fishermen at the canal- the one on the left threw some food for the heron who was quite content to keep him company for 30 min

Traditional houses and restaurants in Gion district close to where we  ate and saw geisha

Typical restaurant in Gion district 

Couple traditionally dressed in Gion

About to start our meal in Gion with super head chef in view

what a start

Day 14 travelling by bullet train to kyoto

Caught subway from outside hotel to Tokyo train station. We had already bought reserved seat tickets for kyoto- damned expensive but not as expensive as Leeds to London. Arranged to leave our cases at the Tokyo hotel, so only carreid rucksacks for this trip. Arrived in Kyoto  around 2.5 h at hell of a speed.  Managed to get subway to our Kyoto hotel and booked in.  After a wash and rest, started to tick off places to see- Nijo Castle- and Imperial Palace Park on way back to hotel.  Both within walking distance of our hotel.  The castle closes at 5pm to the tune of Aulde lange syne- what would Rabbie Burns think?  Spent time in an old and impressive Japanese garden comprising a family shrine and tea house for an adviser to the emperor. Gardens were huge and did not have enough energy to visit the palace. On way back to hotel we looked for somewhere to eat our evening meal- a place that took credit cards as cash is dwindling fast. No luck but later  we walked 2 blocks from our hotel and found a quaint restaurant that had two sliding doors to open before entering-quite mysterious but full of laughter and friendly service.  Shoes off and we sat at a table that had a sunken floor underneath - well a pit- so that we did not have to sit cross legged.  Chose 2 set meals of chicken- quite delicious and since this was aspecial place and importantly accepted our credit card- we ordered a half bottle of wine.

A wonderful evening a short walk back to the hotel and bed.

Elwyn modelling one of the Japanese style dressing gowns provided by the hotel

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The moat and fortified walls at Nijo Castle

The ceremonial tea house in the grounds of the imperial palace

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Shrine on a small island in the grounds of the  Imperial Palace

Our mysterious little restaurant hidden away in a back street

 

Everything set up for traditional dining, but instead of  sitting cross-legged on the floor, you could dangle your legs in the  hole underneath the table

More delicious food - including meat!

Day 12 - Exploring Northern Tokyo

Down for breakfast at 8.00- Both of us chose the ‘western-style’ breakfast (only something you could vaguely recognise as western, but closely watched others eating Japanese breakfast to gauge if we should go for it next day.  We then walked to the fabulous shopping area we saw the night before   lots of small shops and stalls selling clothes and artwork, confectionary and a wide range of restaurants and cafes) and then headed for the Sensoji Temple complex- the oldest temple in Tokyo. Inside main temple we chose a stick at random from a box. The number on it matched a number (in Japanese) on a tray in a large rack of trays.  Inside the tray was a prayer which of course we cannot read.  We watched a religious ceremony before visiting other minor temples.  We then made our way to a crossroad of alleyways covered by leafy vines and settled down for couple of cold drinks and a meal of meat stew.  Temp was now 34C and the owners of the food stall gave us a fan and wet cold towels for our necks.

In the afternoon we ventured into the subway and caught train to Ueno Park that comprises museums, art gallery and a zoo.  Paid £6 to enter the zoo (if we had passports would have had 20% off)- well worth it, especially the two giant pandas and the polar bear- could not drag Liz away.   Spent all afternoon at the zoo before getting subway train back to hotel and a welcome shower.  Might jump into the communal bath on 10^th floor later- no clothes apparently- but like last night we will go to the concert on other side of the Endo River and have another cold beer.

Liz's favourite pictures from Tokyo zoo.

Day 11 - Travelling onwards to Tokyo, Japan (Asakusa district)

Left the Astoria Hotel in Seoul and arrived at Tokyo Narita airport safely but after a miserable meal on United Airlines- must avoid in future.  We then caught the Narita Express to Tokyo station and then a taxi to the Dormy Inn in the Asakusa district. The room was small but very functional with a great view over the Sumidagawa River and of the Asahi brewery building with the strangest giant golden vegetable on top of it. The Sky Tree Tower http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo_Skytree, which is beautifully light at night is in full view from our bedbroom window.. We checked in, washed and were pleased to be told that breakfast was included and that there was free wifi and ‘Night Singing Noodle’s at 21.30.  We walked along the river bank and across the river Ento listen to listen to a pop group playing in an outside arena and have couple of beers and chicken and potato.  After the live entertainment ended we walked along the main street and some back streets enjoying the bustle of the crowds and planning where to go next day.  We were back by 22.00 for singing noodles- very tasty- before bed.  Looked out from our balcony at the amazing site across the river- see photos – before shut-eye at mid night.

Views from hotel bedroom

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 10 - Traveilling back to Seoul

To see more photos as a slide show Click here

Travelled from Daegu to Seoul by express train (KTX) and booked into the Astoria Hotel by afternoon.  Walked to Hanok village where we got soaked the week before and enjoyed participating in some cultural activities and a walk around the gardens.  We came back in the evening for a traditional open air ‘tea ceremony’. We were the only westerners watching. Several Koreans kindly gave us tea and rice cake as we watched with fascination and listened to a monk address the audience before the start of the ceremony which took almost 2h and included writing prayers on paper and attaching to ropes which were tied to a tall pole.  The ceremony involved bringing gifts to a high table by ladies in traditional dress before an elaborate tea ceremony.  Finally, all helped to wind the rope around the pole, including the monk who was clearly revered by all. A very special evening to be remembered.

Day 9 - Rest day at the hotel

This was just a nice quiet rest day at the hotel for Liz, although another busy day at the conference for Elwyn.  The tropical storm which had started yesterday was in full torrent today.  Heavy rain prevented any trips beyond the hotel, but was a good opportunity for getting ready for going back to Seoul tomorrow and then onto to Tokyo on Saturday.

Day 8 - Trip to the Donghwasa Temple in Mt Palgongsan

Click here to see slide show of photos taken at Donghwasa Temple

Day 7 - Trip to Deagu Yangnyeongsi Market (Traditional Korean Medicine Market), Seonmun Market and Dalseong Park

Deagu Yangnyeongsi Market (Traditional Korean Medicine Market)

A short taxi ride from the hotel took us into central Deagu and the Yangnyeongsi Market.  The market wasn't what we first expected.  We had expected an open market, but instead the market consisted of rows of small, fascinating shops containing the strangest assortment of items that are used in traditional Korean medicine.

Becky outside the Oriental Drug Store

The street was filled with shop after shop filled with weird and wonderful items for  making traditional remedies.

Jars filled with honey coloured liquids and strange assortment of  roots

Strange roots the size of human thighs

Deer antlers!

Dried bark and herbs

More antlers - not sure what the significance of the stuffed bird  though.

Next door to the market was the Museum of Traditional Korean Medicine - had lots of fun interactive exhibits

Outside the museum - a sculpture of giant teapots

Some exhibits in the museum

  

Some sources of ingredients for traditional medicines

    

Rarer ingredients included bear bile and pearls

There were also some hands on activities

Becky measuring her own blood pressure 

You could even have a relaxing foot spa

Seomun Market

Some pictures from Seomun Market.  This was a huge, multistorey complex with over 4,000 shops, but a really wonderful, bustling atmosphere.

It was hot!

There were whole streets where every shop sold only hardware items and machine parts of every kind imaginable - including chainsaws

Other streets had only shops that sold motorbikes!

Day 6 - First full day in Deagu

For Elwyn this was the first full day at the ICE (International Conference of Entemology).  Having given his talk in the afternoon he could relax and enjoy a meal out with some of the other participants in a Korean barbeque style restaurant.

Eric and Neil waiting for the meat to arrive.

Some of our waiters who were, at first, very daunted by the prospect of trying to serve 6 non  Korean speaking customers.

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Neil and Aki enjoying the meal.

Becky showing everyone how it's done.

Elwyn eating cooked insect pupae - one of the dishes served with the meal!